More POB stuff

12 11 2009

Recently I was contacted by Ryan Ray, who is the regional coordinator for the Access Fund. He informed me that the Forester family wishes that the climbing guide to Paradise on the Brazos created by Jimmy Ray be removed from the website.

Though Jimmy Ray placed it online for all to download free of charge, the guide is being removed in good faith based on Ryan’s email.

If you have any questions about the guide, or about the possible re-opening of Paradise on the Brazos, I encourage you to contact Ryan.  He doesn’t want his email posted online, but shoot me a message and I’ll send it to you.


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Panhandle Love

29 10 2009

Amarillo is a good 7-8 hours away from DFW, but they finally have a climbing gym to call their own, so I’m giving them some recognition:

Amarillo Rock Climbing House – A.R.C.H.

Congrats everyone. Keep up the good work.


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Climbing Festivus and Adopt-A-Crag

24 10 2009

So the Granite Gripper sounds like it was another great success.  All the info you could ever want is posted at erockonline.

For those that missed but that still want to take part in a great climbing weekend, check out Camp Eagle’s Climbapalooza coming up Dec 5-6.

Everytime they host an event you can be sure its going to be awesome.  The adventure races and mountain bike races they host out there are consistently ranked as top in the state, but for some reason the climbing community as a whole has been a little slow getting the point.

Prolific central Texas new-route-gurus  Tommy Blackwell, Dave Cardosa, Scott Harris, Greg Brooks, Tom Suhler, Luke Bowman, and Evan Jackson have all put up routes out there.  (You’ll see their names on many a route in Austin Rock and other area guidebooks.)

2-3 hours from Austin/San Antonio, 5ish from DFW.  You can pitch a tent, or rent a cabin, or bring an RV.  You can enjoy the river, the cliffs, the mountain bike trails, and more.  Think of it as a limestone version of Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, only in Texas.

All that to say: GO CLIMB AT CAMP EAGLE.

Here’s a quick lo-fi video of the latest 5.13 traverse put up out there:


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Abilene Climbers Roadtrip Recap

15 10 2009

Eric, who maintains the blog Abilene Climbers and who is responsible for a lot of work and development at Lake Brownwood, posted a weekend recap of his recent trip to Camp Eagle and some of the taller limestone routes in Texas.  Check out his post for pics and more.

Still no word on P.O.B.


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Caldwell wins 24 Hours of Horseshoe

9 10 2009

Our brethren to the northeast are really making a name for Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, the epitome of southern sandstone sport and bouldering.  The annual 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell climbing competition is really making a name for itself as well.  24 hours to complete as many routes as you can.

Last year it drew the likes of Sonnie Trotter, and this year Tommy Caldwell tried his hand at the comp and destroyed everyone.  Check out a recap by Oklahoma’s Andy Chasteen

In other news:  Still no word on Paradise on the Brazos.  I’ve sent messages and emails to other parties who seem to be involved, but no response thus far.


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The Return of Paradise on the Brazos Part TWO

5 10 2009

Posted on rockclimbing.com:

“hi this is jordanna jones and we are looking into buying pob we are hoping to close on or around the middle of this month we are going to open it back up. we dont know anything about rock climbing so if yall would help fill us in we would appr. give us a call or email me at bjne374@yahoo.com or look us up at pklodgelp.com thanks looking foward to meeting everyone”

I have initiated contact at the provided email, and eagerly await a reply.  We’ll see what happens.


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BIG NEWS, maybe. The Return of Paradise on the Brazos

30 09 2009

A recent post on the Houston Climbers Meetup group says a couple people might be purchasing Paradise on the Brazos with the intent to reopen to all outdoor activities, including climbing.

I’m hoping this is true.  POTB isn’t the most amazing climbing in Texas, but its exponentially better than the other closest rock climbing, Mineral Wells.

Check out the post: http://www.meetup.com/Houston-Climbing/members/10505829/


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Granite Gripper 2009

24 09 2009

Its that time of year once again, where the temperatures are perfect and the granite of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area is beckoning Texas climbers for probably the best community-oriented weekend of climbing in the state.  October 17 is the 18th Annual Granite Gripper, and if you’ve never been, you should go.  If you have gone, you should go again.

Even if you don’t feel like competing, its hard to find a better weekend anywhere in the state.  Check it the details at www.granitegripper.com


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Hmmmmmm – UPDATED

16 09 2009

Climb San Antonio was scheduled to go live on some major webpage updates as of yesterday, September 15.  However, no such changes have yet appeared. Keep checking back, and hopefully something new will show up soon.

UPDATE – Although a lot of the site is still the same, the original Red Bluff Bouldering guide is now available for download.


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Labor Day Climbing Trip

9 09 2009

Local climber and raw food enthusiast The Organic Climber posted a recap of the recent Labor Day trip we took to Shelf Road, Colorado.  We had no ambitions other than to have fun, so if you’re looking for epic tales of ‘insert difficult climbing grade here’ onsight glory, go elsewhere.

First Blood - 5.9

First Blood - 5.9. Photo by Caleb Simpson - Organic Climber

The most interesting part, other than enjoying a great weekend of climbing, was hearing all the folks up there complain about how hot the 80 degree temps were, all while pining for the “perfect sending temperatures in just another month or so.”

After routinely subjecting ourselves to 100+ degree days to climb on what little rock is available around here, there wasn’t anything to do except shake our heads in disbelief and keep climbing.


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