The only officially sanctioned places for climbing in state parks in Texas are: Mineral Wells, Franklin Mountains, Hueco Tanks, Enchanted Rock. Texas Limestone Bouldering lists a few parks where bouldering is accepted, but not officially endorsed.
Other places with obvious potential:
Big Bend Ranch State Park – only its remoteness prevents it from becoming more popular. Too few people to really care what you’re doing. The whole border of Texas and Mexico in this region is one massive limestone cliff. 1 days drive from everywhere.
Colorado Bend State Park – TONS of beautiful limestone walls and plenty of caves too. 2 hrs from Austin, 1 hr from Killeen.
Garner State Park – a huge cliff on typical amazing Hill Country water. The rivers in this area make Reimer’s water look and feel like a lukewarm bath. 2 hours from San Antonio. 3+ from Austin.
Government Canyon – a few of my San Antonio friends said their one regret was that they didn’t stealth bolt any climbs before this became public land so that climbing would’ve been grandfathered-in. Haven’t been there myself, so I don’t really know what’s out there. Right smack dab near San Antonio.
Guadalupe River State Park – Climbing was once open here, and may or may not still be. I’m not really sure and don’t know anyone that has climbed here. Right near San Antonio.
Seminole Canyone State Park- again, beautiful limestone walls carved by the flash floods of the desert. Historical pictographs and petroglyphs, so this place would never be opened by the man. Middle of nowhere Del Rio, but if you could get the Pecos River Cliffs to re-open, they’re just right down the road.
What are the parks I’m missing?
UPDATE:
Pedernales Falls – I’m an idiot for forgetting about this one. Already plenty of bouldering goes on. I guess this could have been covered in the statement above about the TLB guide, but whatever.
Lost Maples – more hill country limestone.
